Oceanography Exam 2
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Most ocean waves form as a result of ________.
winds blowing across the ocean surface
(wrong answers:
density differences between water layers ,
Earth's rotation ,
landslides ,
seismic events )
-
An internal wave might form ________.
at a density boundary within the ocean
(wrong answers:
at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor ,
close to shore as it moves into shallow water ,
only as a result of tidal activity ,
at the boundary between the atmosphere and the ocean )
-
Water waves are ________.
orbital waves
(wrong answers:
capillary waves ,
refracted waves ,
transverse waves ,
longitudinal waves )
-
The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the ________.
wave steepness
(wrong answers:
wave height ,
frequency ,
period,
wavelength )
-
The time between two successive waves is called the ________.
period
(wrong answers:
trough,
crest ,
frequency,
height)
-
The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to ________.
wavelength/2
(wrong answers:
wavelength/wave height ,
wavelength/20 ,
wave height/wavelength )
-
The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to ________.
wave height
(wrong answers:
wavelength,
wavelength/wave period ,
wave period ,
wave height/wavelength )
-
A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least ________.
1/2 of the wavelength
(wrong answers:
wave height ,
wavelength,
1/20 of the wavelength ,
the fetch )
-
The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to ________.
wavelength
(wrong answers:
wave height ,
water depth ,
wave frequency ,
wave speed or celerity )
-
The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to ________.
water depth
(wrong answers:
wavelength,
wave frequency ,
wave height ,
wave period )
-
The height of a wave depends upon ________.
fetch, wind duration, and wind speed
(wrong answers:
fetch and wind speed ,
wind duration and wind speed ,
fetch,
wind duration )
-
The fetch refers to ________.
the distance over which the wind blows without interruption
(wrong answers:
a method of shoreline erosion control ,
the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level ,
the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave passes )
-
Waves that are moving faster than local wind and are sorted out by wavelength are called ________.
swell
(wrong answers:
surf,
wind waves ,
constructive waves )
-
Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces ________.
smaller waves
(wrong answers:
rouge waves ,
capillary waves ,
tsunamis ,
swells )
-
As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ________.
increases and its wavelength decreases
(wrong answers:
increases and its wavelength remains the same ,
decreases and its wavelength increases ,
increases and its frequency decreases ,
decreases and its steepness decreases )
-
Waves in the surf zone begin to behave like shallow-water waves when ________.
water depth = wavelength/20
(wrong answers:
distance from shore < wavelength ,
water depth = wave height ,
steepness = 1:7 ,
wavelength < wave height )
-
Waves converge on headlands due to ________.
wave refraction
(wrong answers:
constructive interference ,
wave diffraction ,
destructive interference ,
wave reflection )
-
Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave formation?
Sea, swell, surf
(wrong answers:
Surf, swell, sea ,
Swell, sea, surf ,
Sea, surf, swell ,
Surf, sea, swell )
-
A tsunami may result from ________.
tectonic activity on the seafloor
(wrong answers:
a storm surge ,
constructive wave interference ,
a large deep-water wave ,
an intense storm )
-
Based on the graph, a deep-water wave with a period of 16 seconds should have a speed of ________ meters per second and a wavelength of ________ meters.
25.0; 400
(wrong answers:
22.0; 300 ,
27.0; 500 ,
18.0; 200 )